A no-filter solo hiker’s tale from Torres del Paine follows:
Like a game of snakes and ladders, the Torres del Paine ‘W’ trek gives you moments of pure magic, followed immediately by steep climbs that make you question every life choice. Just when you think you’re done, the landscape pulls you back in, refreshed and curious enough to keep going.
At the very bottom of South America, in Chilean Patagonia, sits Torres del Paine National Park, which loosely translates to “Towers of Blue”. The name fits. The lakes are impossibly turquoise, the mountains striped and dramatic, the clouds whipped into surreal shapes. It genuinely feels unreal.
Heaven on earth – with a side of suffering!
Day 1: The Challenge Begins
I arrived by bus from Puerto Natales, then caught the boat across Lake Pehoé to Paine Grande, which is at the bottom of the first ‘W’ left leg. The crossing was calm and sunny, with postcard views and a waterfall to set the tone.
From there, I started the 3.5 hour trek to Refugio Grey. It began gently enough, winding past forests and streams, before turning into a relentless climb hugging the mountainside. The wind was icy, the terrain unforgiving, and my mood deteriorated quickly. My nickname for the park at this point? Torres del PAIN!
Less than two hours into the four day walk, I was already wondering if I’d made a terrible mistake. I was extremely frustrated and angry with the steep, rugged track, the wind, and the constant need to blow my nose every 10 feet! Needless to say, pack plenty of tissues if you have sinus issues!
Eventually, Refugio Grey appeared like a mirage. I collapsed, barely moved for the rest of the day, and called it a win.
Highlights:
– Stunning views of the park and a waterfall
– First sighting of Grey Glacier
– Realising I didn’t have to walk anymore
Day 2: Retreat and Recovery
Grey Glacier was only a short 10 minute walk away and absolutely mesmerising. After soaking it in, I retraced my steps back along the first leg of the ‘W’ to Paine Grande.
I was meant to continue onward to another refugio in the middle of the ‘W’, but physically couldn’t. Instead, I paid for a bed at Paine Grande (luckily they had room!), rewarded myself with food, and went to bed early – zero regrets.
Highlights:
– Captivating views of Grey Glacier
– A very good chocolate brownie!
– The view of the park from my room’s window
Day 3: Redemption Arc
After a solid sleep, I stood at a crossroads: bus back to Puerto Natales, or push on. Continuing meant an 11-hour day to make up for lost ground. Make or break.
An hour later, I knew I’d made the right call. This time I was stopping so much, not to blow my nose, but to take photos!
Los Cuernos, my favourite mountains in the range, dominated the skyline with their dramatic striped faces. Granite base, dark slate caps. Ridiculous beauty. I’ll let my photos do the heavy lifting for me:
I followed the trail for the first 2.5 hours, soaking in a patchwork of landscapes: Lake Pehoe’s shores, rivers to cross, meadows, fire-regrowth forests, muddy woods, and finally the Rio Francés, which led to the heart of the ‘W’.
I didn’t venture far into the middle leg of the ‘W’, but I did reach Mirador Francés. The forest trail was steep and rocky, the river roaring beside me. At the viewpoint, I sat watching glacial ice calve off the mountain face, listening to the cracks and thunder. It was absolutely mesmerising.
After heading back down the middle ‘W’ leg, I treated myself to civilisation at Refugio Cuernos; Wi-Fi, Moro bar, a much needed Red Bull, and a call home!
Then I made a classic solo-hiker error: took a “shortcut”. Thirty minutes lost, one pond circled twice, mild panic about wild animals!, and a sheepish backtrack later, I accepted defeat and went the long way. Later as I was climbing a steep hill, I saw that the shortcut actually led to the top of it. After finally reaching the top, it took me another 30 minutes to reach my last shelter, Refugio Chileno.
I think happy and relieved would be the major understatement! My knees and legs were shaking, I had sore feet and was utterly wiped out. If that wasn’t enough to wipe me out, I’m pretty sure the celebratory vodka drink did!
Highlights:
– Los Cuernos in all their glory
– Mirador Francés
– Civilisation and treats at Refugio Cuernos
– Making it to Refugio Chileno in one piece
Day 4: Towers, Finally
I’d planned a sunrise hike to the Torres. Instead, I accidentally slept in. After a 12-hour day, I guess it was no surprise.
I started at 9am, reached the towers by 10.30am — and had them all to myself!!
Just me and the towering massifs I’d seen on guidebook covers months earlier. I felt absurdly lucky, teary with gratitude, and slightly disbelieving that I was standing there alone.
‘Quick get the camera and take heaps of photos Ren!’ I thought to myself.
I spent about 40 minutes up there before coming down, taking photos, eating snacks, and soaking it all in. As I descended, tour group after tour group passed me, making me even more grateful for my time by the Towers. After grabbing my backpack from Refugio Chileno, I descended to Refugio Las Torres and waited for a shuttle bus to take me to Administration, to meet a connecting bus to Puerto Natales.
Highlights:
– Torres del Paine, solo
– That deep, quiet sense of achievement
Ren vs. Wild Scoreboard
This one felt fair.
REN: 1 WILD: 1
I completed the ‘W’ trek in 4 days and 3 nights, covering 74.2 km and nearly 146,933 steps (as per my Apple Watch). I’d love to attempt the ‘O’ Circuit one day, but with better preparation, fewer shortcuts, and a healthy respect for Patagonia’s ability to humble you.
Have you ever nearly quit a trek, only to be glad you didn’t?
Below is my vlog I took there:
Must-Know Info for Torres del Paine
Getting There:
- Plane: Fly to Punta Arenas, then bus to Puerto Natales. Shoulder-season deals from Santiago can be as low as $30 USD.
- Bus: From Puerto Natales, regular buses run Nov–Apr with Buses Gómez or Buses María José (~10k CLP / $16 USD, 4x/day).
- Tour: Short on time? Day tours like this one are available and let you experience Torres del Paine without committing to a multi-day hike.
Accommodation:
In Torres del Paine, you can choose to camp or stay in rustic refugios. As I was hiking alone, I preferred staying in the refugios to stay connected with people, and to avoid carrying camping gear. I left my main suitcase at my hostel Yagan House in Puerto Natales.
- Refugio Grey (Night 1): Probably my favourite refugio I stayed in. Modern, wood fires for drying shoes, meals available. Dorms of 4–6, ~50–60 hikers.
- Refugio Paine Grande (Night 2): Biggest refugio on the trail, minimarket inside, dorm-style rooms.
- Refugio Cuernos: I missed staying here on night two due to exhaustion. Sunny terrace, food, drinks, Wi-Fi. Great for mid-trek recharge.
- Refugio Chileno (Night 3): Chaotic but serviceable; dormitories with ~10 people, meals and socialising available.
Tips for Solo Hikers:
Shortcuts can be deceptive – watch maps and trails carefully.
Pack tissues – Patagonia winds + sinus issues = pain.
Snacks & hydration for long legs.
Wi-Fi is scarce – buy at refugios if you need to stay in touch.
Lore & Tempo is where motherhood meets adventure. I’m Ren – storyteller, explorer, and single mum in Wellington, New Zealand. I’ve been lucky enough to wander through 45 countries. 15 of them with my +1, Kaydes, either strapped to my front, on my hip, or running ahead on her own adventures. I created this space to share single parent life, travel tips, and the joy of exploring the world.
