Bacalar wasn’t on my radar the first time I travelled solo through Mexico in 2016, and I wish it had been. Returning years later with my mum and my daughter, it ended up being one of the places that felt the most distinct from everything else we experienced!
We arrived after a couple of days that hadn’t quite landed the way we expected. Tulum was grey, a bit underwhelming, and harder to connect with than I remembered. Even the hotel stay felt slightly off. Not terrible, just lacking warmth and good hospitality.
Then we got on the bus to Bacalar, and everything softened.
After arriving, picking up a few groceries, and taking a short taxi ride, we reached Bluebayou Bacalar. We only had one night booked, but it was clear before we even reached the room that this stay would feel different.
Caoba (Spanish for mahogany)
Bluebayou Bacalar is small, with just a handful of cabins, set next to the lagoon. It’s simple, quiet, and well integrated into the landscape rather than standing apart from it. We stayed in Caoba 1, one of the cabins tucked into the greenery near reception. I had wanted to book somewhere that felt like a Mexican bungalow, and this was exactly that.
The name itself felt fitting. Caoba means mahogany, a wood historically traded through this part of Mexico and the wider Caribbean. The cabin was simple but thoughtfully put together, with a relaxed, slightly rustic feel. Somewhere between a cabin stay and a softer version of glamping.
There was enough space for the three of us, and everything felt clean, functional, and easy to settle into. The only drawback was that the room felt a little dark at times. Likely due to curtained glass doors and softer lighting, but it didn’t take away from the overall experience.
That sense of calm carried into the evening, with the property remaining quiet and still. After Kaydes had gone to sleep, we took turns walking down to the jetty, pausing to look out over the lagoon. Kayakers drifted past slowly, and the only real sound was the soft rhythm of paddles moving through the water. Later, Mum and I sat back and watched Bridget Jones’s Diary, which now has fond memories of it now.
Breakfast the next morning was simple and efficient. Enough to get us going without turning it into an event, which suited the pace of the place.
The Lagoon of Seven Colours
The lagoon is the reason people come to Bacalar, and it holds more depth than it first appears to. Often referred to as the Lagoon of Seven Colours, the water shifts between different shades of blue depending on depth, sunlight, and mineral content. It’s fed by cenotes and underground rivers running through the limestone of the Yucatán Peninsula, which helps maintain its clarity.
Bacalar itself comes from the Maya word Bakhalal, often translated as ‘surrounded by reeds’, and the lagoon has supported life here for centuries. Long before it became a destination, it was part of Maya settlements and later colonial trade routes – even having pirate attacks through nearby waterways!
The lagoon is also home to stromatolites. Some of the oldest living organisms on Earth, formed over thousands of years by layers of bacteria. I found myself moving slowly in the water, holding Kaydes and trying not to disturb anything unnecessarily.
There were also small signs before the jetty explaining the surrounding ecosystem, including the mangroves. They play an important role in oxygen production and maintaining water quality. It added another layer to what initially just looks like a beautiful place.
The property’s L-shaped jetty made access easy. Stairs lead directly into the lagoon, just steps from the cabins, though the limestone below can be slippery in places. The water is calm, but it deepens quickly, creating darker bands of blue further out.
By evening, the lagoon shifted again. The lights from the property reflected almost perfectly on the still water, creating a soft mirror effect. It felt calm, warm, and completely unhurried.
Around Bluebayou Bacalar
We spent part of the late afternoon walking south from the hotel, just to see what was around. It’s an easy place to walk – flat, quiet, and not overly developed – but one thing that stood out was how limited public access to the lagoon is. Much of the shoreline is tied to private properties, which means you don’t get continuous open views unless you’re staying somewhere with direct access.
When we did find a small opening, it felt like something we’d come across rather than something designed for visitors. No crowds, no structure, just a quiet space to pause. There was also a slight hesitation, wondering if we were actually meant to be there!
We only stayed one night at Bluebayou Bacalar, which is the one thing I would change without hesitation. The setting, the simplicity, the access to the lagoon, and the genuinely kind service all came together in a way that felt natural rather than curated. Next time I visit Bacalar, I want to see more of the lagoon especially on a sailing tour.
From Bacalar, we continued our journey toward Guatemala via Belize. That part of the trip was far less straightforward, with confusion at the border and unexpected costs that caught us off guard. It’s worth being aware if you are heading that way too, that processes there can be unclear, particularly around exit fees and cash requirements!
Lore & Tempo is where motherhood meets adventure. I’m Ren – storyteller, explorer, and single mum in Wellington, New Zealand. I’ve been lucky enough to wander through 45 countries. 15 of them with my +1, Kaydes, either strapped to my front, on my hip, or running ahead on her own adventures. I created this space to share single parent life, travel tips, and the joy of exploring the world.
